Sublime Balkiss

Balkiss was the name of the Queen of Sheba, the lover of King Solomon, but don't expect a spice-laden fragrance. And though Céline Ellena, who co-founded The Different Company along with her father Jean-Claude and legendary bottle designer Thierry de Baschmakoff, touts Sublime Balkiss as a chypre, don't expect a classic chypre.

The canonic bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss trilogy has been set aside and the scent retains only the structure of the chypre: mouthwatering bergamot, astringent cassis and blackberries stage the juicy, slightly raspy opening burst; damascene rose, lily of the valley and lilac provide the soft floral heart, with a lashing of green violet leaves and heather; two different types of patchouli grounding the composition. One is the traditional essence of patchouli; the other, more unusual one, is a fraction of patchouli essential oil, which brings out the cocoa facets of the heart notes (a chocolate-like effect similar in Serge Lutens' Bornéo 1834).

With its berry top notes and patchouli base, Sublime Balkiss is sure to appeal to Angel fans – if you've given up on Thierry Mugler's classic because it was too popular, or too potent, you'll find the familar accord played in the lighter hand of the trademark Ellena style.