Dark Shadows

Dark Shadows is a second collaboration with Rajesh Balkrishnan, taking the powder accord perfected for Pan's Labyrinth and pulling it somewhere completely different. Blood orange and neroli open bright and juicy, but ambergris already sits underneath, wrapping that brightness in something salty and oceanic. Lychee rose otto adds a fruited floral edge, lending the scent lift and diffusion.

The heart is where the powder accord shows its darker side. Bulgarian rose and osmanthus build an apricot-tinged floral core, while jade wood and blue cypress bring a smooth woodiness that keeps things from tipping too floral. Fir needle cuts through with a resinous, forest-fresh snap, and the same soft, elegant powder that defined Pan's Labyrinth becomes the entire carrier, softening every sharp edge. The base takes over completely. Papua and Merauke oud build a dark, resinous woody foundation, patchouli and labdanum thicken everything into something dense and amber-rich, and oakmoss and vetiver ground it with mossy depth. Tobacco adds a warm, slightly sweet smokiness, while cacao brings a dark, almost bitter-chocolate richness. This is what happens when a beautiful thing is turned dark.