Eau de Parfum
For its first woody-oriental fragrance, Diptyque reaches back once more, as it did for classics like Do Son and Premier Figuier, into co-founder Yves Coueslant’s memories. During the sea journeys he took from Marseille to Saigon as a child, he was fascinated by the smell of the Egyptian cigarettes women smoked on the higher deck where he wasn’t allowed to venture.
The perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin sought out these exotic cigarettes to study their scent, which he softened with a milder, dried fruit and honey Amsterdam tobacco note. The honey facet conjures the waxed gangways and wood-paneled rooms of the ship, while the darker leather facets of tobacco hint at the slightly bituminous smell of the hull.
To soften the masculine aspects of his tobacco, Pellegrin added an elegant, powdery iris lined in musk, turning Volutes (“plume of smoke”) into a richly unctuous blend that melts into the skin.
The Eau de Toilette, at 10%, is airier and more powdery.
The Eau de Parfum, with a 16% concentration and differently balanced ingredients, is spicier, with a stronger contrast between the woody powdery dryness of iris, the honeyed aromatic character of immortelle and the balsamic warmth of styrax.
Both may well be the most sophisticated Diptyques yet, and almost certainly one of the most refined interpretations of tobacco ever. We’re hooked.
Mugwort, pink pepper, Sechuan pepper, saffron, mandarin, immortelle, hay, honey, iris, tobacco, styrax, opoponax, musk