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The name conjures the year when European noses were introduced to the oddly compelling, musty smell of patchouli, through the leaves slipped between cashmere shawls to repel moths during their long sea voyage from the Orient to Europe.
The scent is a distinctively Lutens exercise on baroque distortion: a camphor blast as burning as a mouthful of the blackest, bitterest chocolate, followed by an unrelentingly dry cocoa-patchouli aroma, so dark it takes on licorice hues. Galbanum and labdanum lend their subtly resinous smoothness while intensifying the un-gourmand quality of the chocolate accord.
Bornéo 1834 is definitely of the love-it-or-hate-it Lutens compositions, but if you succumb as we did, you will find it as comforting as a winter evening wrapped in a delicate cashmere shawl, reading Balzac (his Eugenie Grandet was published in 1834) by the amber glow of the fireside, sipping an excellent single-malt scotch and nibbling on a square of Guanaja.
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Floral notes, galbanum, Indonesian patchouli, cocoa accord, cistus labdanum.
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Christopher Sheldrake
Other fragrances by: Christopher Sheldrake |
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