Jeux de Peau

Eau de Parfum

by Serge Lutens

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The Scoop

Serge Lutens' latest opus takes us far from Marrakech, back to his native city of Lille in the North of France, and to the magical “golden place” of his childhood, the bakery where he was sent to fetch the bread after school… “When I got to the bakery I woke up from my daydreaming to enjoy the sight of the bread. Bread opens your eyes just as surely as it whets your appetite”, Serge Lutens reminisces.

Is this Jeux de Peau a “jeu de mot”, the “play on skin” a play on words? The scent doesn't smell like a bakery: the bread comes wrapped up in toasted, roasted notes that conjure the familiar aromas of coffee, chocolate and chicory (the hot drink, not the plant), sprinkled with cool green spices and darkened with licorice… The familiar Lutens accord of lactonic fruit, violet and woods is subtly displaced as a result: the creamy, smoky sandalwood alludes to butter melting on toasted bread; the apricot, perhaps a facet of osmanthus, turns into jam. But the dryness of the burnt wood notes gives off a hint of incense – the child may have already dreaming of Marrakech before knowing it.

“I set out to use this fragrance like a lovely invisible ink to write a message on the air”, Serge Lutens concludes. Isn't that the purpose of all fragrances?

Jeux de Peau  Notes

Bread note, spices, licorice, apricot, immortelle, sandalwood, woody notes, amber

Jeux de Peau Sizes Available
50ml $150
.7 ml
.7 ml Sample $5
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Here's what other people are saying about Jeux de Peau...
To me, this smells like love. Love that has had a while to get comfortable with itself & with it's partner. That enjoys it's sexy times in the kitchen amoungst the brunch dishes as much as anything adventurous in the bedroom. The kind of love that understands the value of both comfort & kindness. My skin loves basenotes, and thus I get a lot of the sandalwood, spice, & amber, but the scent of freshly baked bread remains for a significant time, occasionally twisting into slices slathered with fruit jam or like pancakes with syrup (immortelle, I assume.) The woody notes mostly show up as a 'clean human skin' illusion that I find divine.
By   - human from wichita on 9/8/2016
The reviewer who noted that this has a very specific candle-scent moment wasn't wrong, but the fragrance goes on to far greater things in its special baked-bread-and-smoke way. The woody-licorice note is just delightful; I'm hard-pressed to think of a warmer gourmand, nor one with more potential to appeal to those heathen who "don't like perfume." More than most fragrances, I want to go to the place this scent describes.
By   - editor from Seattle on 1/7/2016
This is one of my favorite gourmands, my favorite fall fragrance, and my favorite from Serge Lutens. It's floured bread on a wooden cutting board, warm and cozy amber, and a swirl of black pepper and spices in the background. I get so many compliments on this and it's my favorite thing to wear on a chilly day.
By   - Writer from Toronto on 10/14/2015
This put a smile on my face and recieved a compliment first thing out the door. I definitely recognized the reference to baked bread although nobody in my home did. They just thought I smelled good. I could see buying a bottle to wear on days when I'm low energy and just want to feel comfortable. I do wish the longevity was just a little bit greater. It disappeared on my skin by lunch as so many of the best fragrances do.
By   - Designer from New York on 4/24/2015
Strong and immediate maple long john donut smell, with a yummy smoky undertone. A rich floral alchemy occurs on the dry down, which becomes more delicious, complicated, and honey caramel-sexy the longer it is on.
By   - from Portland on 1/23/2015
I have fought this one. It is delicious but...strange. To quote another reviewer - quirky and chewy. I'm an architect but also a baker (working on a cookbook) - and I feel like this perfume speaks to me in that it manages to convey not literal 'baked goods' but rather the building in which baking has occurred - for decades. In my mind the experiences of the thousands of people whilst they sat and talked, nibbling and sipping, has seeped into the wood. Yes. If you could take a wall or floor board from that venerable place - slightly dusty, well polished, steeped in history as well as butter, sugar, and flour - and inhaled.... that is what this scent is to me. Thus: fascinating and strange. The other strange thing is my husband's reaction to it - he LOVES it. I've worn a gazillion 'sexy' perfumes to entice him and it is THIS strange creature that stops him in his tracks. Last time I wore it he sniffed the air around me like a shark circling and then buried his face in my neck and said I smelled like 'a tree he wanted to hug.' ...what the heck?? :)
By   - Architect from Portland on 6/20/2014
Mmm... This scent transports me to a place... A very clean cafe in a very old building. Patterned tin ceiling and worn wood floors--- there is a slight mustiness that comes with old buildings. This cafe has been around for generations--- grandparents reminisce about good times here. There is a sharp crackling crusty scent of caraway rye bread and French chickory coffee. It's sophisticated while simultaneously homey. The dry-down is maple syrup, with that whiff of caraway that holds the whole thing together. A very evocative scent.
By   - from Madison, WI on 5/29/2013
It's an offbeat gourmand and I like it for its thick, chewy quirkiness. But as was mentioned in a previous comment, immortelle is a featured player, so your reaction to the somewhat unusual fruit, tea & straw qualities of immortelle will make or break your appreciation for Jeux de Peau.
By   - from NathanB on 12/27/2012
I like this, and find it to be a mellower version of L'artisan's Tea for Two. I think it's the smokiness on the dry down that points towards that similarity. Jeux de Peau appears to have a nice longevity, and is one of those comforting scents that I can see myself gravitating to as the weather gets colder. I'm not sure I would make the connection to bread if I wasn't distinctly looking for that type of note... it actually seems more like a caramel, but in a pleasant way. 4 stars.... it is really nice, but I'm not sure I would purchase a whole bottle.
By   - from Hamden on 8/8/2011
This smells like I rubbed a sticky bun on my skin, all caramel and butter. I was hoping for, I don't know, maybe a yeastier, more bread-like scent? My nose just smells a complex, fancy candle. Not my favorite SL.
By   - from New Orleans on 7/11/2011
For me, the perfect melange of nutty, buttery-crisped spiciness, nothing cloying at all. Sexy and comforting. I really didn't need to buy another scent but after sampling I took the plunge and am happy I did. Definitely try it if you are intrigued by non-vanilla, non-chocolate gourmande scents.
By   - Artist from Pasadena on 7/3/2011
too contrived for me. too much going on. over wrought. bread and osmathus or immortelle and this and that... too much. sometimes sweet and familiar scents don't do well when you try to make them too complex or contemporary.
By   - interior decorator from san francisco on 5/28/2011
Yummm - this is an absolutely delicious scent that evokes the aroma of a French Patisserie. More sophisticated than most gourmand scents, it has a lovely toasty topnote with a delicate undercurrent of spice. There is a comforting creaminess to Jeux de Peau -- none of the excessive sweetness that I dislike in many gourmand scents. Just can't get enough of this wonderful scent -- I just purchased a FB!
By   - Marketing Executive from New York on 5/17/2011
YES!!!! This is a very french patisserie in the late summer. Gorgeous people running about. You happen in and the smell of bread is there but it's not in-your-face...perhaps that distant floral is the woman holding croissant? Wait, who ordered the hot cocoa with mocha? OMG this stuff, if it stays THIS nice, is FB worthy for me. Odd though, so try it first. 8-)
By   - mommy from midwest on 5/9/2011
LOVE IT! Im not getting the buttered toast. This is mainly a sandalwood fragrance on me. I like sandalwood but it always gets just a bit too stale or too body odorish for me to fall completely in love. This has whatever the others are missing-just a touch of spice and gourmand. Really delicious without being too sweet. Just bought a full bottle!
By  on 4/27/2011
This is beautifully made, but way too gourmand for me. I was hoping for a sharper, spicier woody note, not cinnamon toast. My skin tends to turn fragrances sweet- and this does turn very sweet on me. The licorice surfaces in the dry down and rounds out the top which created something very worthy. I would definitely try this again on a cool, rainy Sunday afternoon in the fall.
By   - Fragrance from New York, NY on 4/23/2011
I bought this from the first try on my skin. It is absolutely beautiful. The opening notes are delicious in the most simple way, definitely smells like sweet burnt bread. As it develops the sandalwood is prominent along with some florals. The drydown on my skin is incense + licorice. (im not a fan of licorice).. But the journey until the drydown is definitely worth it. Yum!
By  on 3/28/2011
Once the bread wears off you're left with an over-priced D&G The One.
By   - snifferbot on 3/11/2011
Ah, bummer, this doesn't work on me very well... The fragrance is an intensely persistent melange of licorice, apricot, immortelle, amber and sandalwood notes with an interesting plumminess and a crisped edge to it (I guess that's the bread note). On my skin, however, the licorice swallows up all other notes, coloring every stage of the fragrance with its sweet and vegetal scent (think sugar with celery - yeah, it smells weird on me). I actually had to wash it off last night, which I never do with a Lutens scent. Too bad, as I was looking forward to trying this. It's the kind of classic Lutens we all know and love and I hope it works for you even if it didn't for me.
By   - from NYC on 3/8/2011
This is a beautiful fragrance if you like the immortelle..i do, so this one is a wonderful gourmand on me and only gets nicer the longer it is on my skin
By  on 3/5/2011
For me, it creates the smell-o-vision of being in a French Bakery where the smell of freshly baked bread intermingles with the scent of perfume being worn by women coming into the bakery wearing perfumes and buying bread. ++ I definitely smell the apricot/osmanthus and bread note. I get whiffs of the immortelle and the wood notes. It's like an olfactory kaleidoscope. I just ordered the bottle.
By   - from Laguna, CA. on 3/5/2011
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