Bertrand Duchaufour is on a roll. With Penhaligon's Amaranthine, he proved that his masterful style could extend to sensual florals. Now, he's gone and tackled the most unmanageable diva of the perfumer's palette, and come up with a totally novel, utterly seductive take on tuberose.
The eagerly expected Nuit de Tubéreuse turns down the classic, creamy-coconutty facets of the flower to focus on its more unusual facets. The top notes draw out the odd, rooty, snapped asparagus stalk aspects of tuberose absolute and set them off with vibrant green cardamom; mango drenched in pink pepper creates an almost incense-like effect – Duchaufour's signature. The scent goes through a strangely compelling, freshly upturned earth phase before easing into a suave floral heart, where the tuberose is bolstered by orange blossom, ylang-ylang and rose, wrapped in the honeyed-tobacco facets of broom on a warm, musky, woody and balsamic base.
If you're addicted to tuberose, you'll be riveted by Bertrand Duchaufour's totally original interpretation. If you're tuberose-averse, you might very well be converted. And if you're a man, you may have finally found a version of the note that can be worn unselfconsciously. But women needn't worry: Nuit de Tubéreuse is still very much a heart-breaker.